12 Aralık 2016 Pazartesi

Natural form era corset

I have made a couple of corsets already this year, but I needed to make one more. I'm in a middle of a project that requires a light colored natural form era corset that can be worn comfortably even for longer periods of time. I have also often been disappointed in the flatness of my belly in my Victorian corsets and I wanted to try to finally get a rounder belly and more noticeable dip in at the waist when you look at the corsets side profile. Not something a modern era woman would prefer but an essential aspect in trying to get the era look just right. I also tried to get more overall roundness in it to avoid a too waspy waist and so make it suitable for any year between 1877 and early 1880's.

I dyed some white cotton coutil to a light cotton candy pink and made a single layer corset following period instructions as described in The Fashions of the Gilded Age 1. The boning is thin spiral steel and flossing is done with blue silk. The pattern started off as the 1880's corset from Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines few corsets ago, but has slowly transformed in to something quite different. 

Overall I'm pleased. It's the most comfortable corset I've made. It has the long lean "natural" lines suitable for natural form era gowns. The size is right and although I still don't have the perfect adorable victorian belly, I was able to get close by shaping the the third panel in a way that supports the goal better and bending the busk in shape. (I think I will try to bend it a bit more still to try to lift the roundness a little upwards.)











Construction:

I sewed the panels together leaving the seam allowances on the right side. Then I covered them with strips of coutil forming external cases for boning. I also added extra channels to the wider panels. I love this construction method. It's so simple and the result is very neat inside and out.




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