First hand sewn 18th century stays, 2006

So they were my first hand sewn stays, and when I was finished I really thought they were going to be my last, but I was so wrong. Stays are very addictive. The pattern was drafted by me. I didn't base it in any existing pattern, but I tried to achieve the same shape and look as the 1770's stays in the Victoria an Albert Museum.

They are made from duchess silk satin, two layers of coarse linen and a separate linen lining. They are boned with spring steel and the the busk is made of wood. The sewing was made with linen thread. The main reason I eventually wanted to make a new pair was that the bust is too tight and the steel boning makes it too stiff. Also the stitching isn't neat enough for my taste.

Here you can also see the bumroll that I made at the same time. I also made a new shift with narrower sleeves although they are still quite full.

18th century winter clothing, 2006

I needed warm 18th century clothes to take part in a winter trek. It was a cold weather (-20 degrees C / -4.00 degrees F) so I made a hooded wool cloak, two woolen short gowns that close with straight pins, woolen petticoat and one exceptionally warm quilted petticoat. For the sake of easy movement I made unboned leather stays and a shift with full sleeves. I also wore a linen neck handkerchief and a linen cap. I tried my best to keep the outfit authentic but warm. The cap could have been bigger, but this style seems to stay on better in wind and all the action.

This picture was taken as I woke up and hadn't yet put on all of my clothes so it gives a good view of the shift and the stays.

All the above pictures by Quill

The stays were just two pieces of leather that had lacing holes in both center front and center back edges.

The petticoat was made of two panels that consisted of two layers of unbleached linen stuffed with a thick layer of unprocessed wool, still greasy and all. It was hand quilted, but with rather long stitches.

In this picture the quilting is finished in one direction. The hem is on the right, the top edge at the left.