Early bustle underwear, 2008

I drafted the chemise pattern after looking a lot of museum examples online. I tried to make it in a style that would fit both 1860's and 1870's. It's made of thin cotton and the trimmed with cotton lace. The drawers are also drafted by me, trimmed with the same lace and pintucks.

The is a one layer cotton coutil corset, sewn with machine using period techniques described in The Fashions Of The Gilded Age by Frances Grimble. The pattern is based on the c. 1873 corset from Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh. The corset is heavily corded with cotton cord, which stiffens the corset wonderfully.

The bustle pattern is based on the one in Corsets and Crinolines, only drafted a little lager. 

The petticoats are stiffened with flounces and cotton cording.

The layers.

1780s printed cotton robe à lAnglaise, 2008

The dress is made of 18th century reproduction Dutch chintz and lined with linen. It is hand sewn with linen tread. Each piece of the bodice is lined separately attaching them together with running stitch with the seam allowances on the inside. The pieces are then whip stitched together. The skirt top is folded in shape, pleated and then whip stitched to the bodice. Striped silk sash is made of two lengths of fabric, edged with a rolled hem.

Construction pictures:

The petticoat:

It's made of three panels of sheer cotton, whip stitched together at the selvedge. I made slits on both sides, folded and pleated the top edges and whip stitched them on long tapes, front and back separately. It is worn over hand sewn linen petticoat and a false rump.

The rump:

It is hand sewn, linen with linen tread, filled with unprocessed cotton fiber.

I based it on this drawing from Manchester Art Gallery:

Direct link to the picture

1780s stays, 2008

Completely hand sewn with linen thread. The top layer is duchess silk satin, the next two layers are coarse linen and between them are the bones (round cane, 2,5 mm diameter). The bone casings for the horizontal bones are made of linen tape and the separate lining is fine linen. The pattern is based on the 1780's stays in Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh.

Construction pictures.

Late 18th century shift, 2008

Hand sewn from 2.8 oz linen. The neckline is a little too low on the back, but I will make a new one some day.